Champagne Lanson Extra Âge Brut

Disgorged in November 2017 after a decade sur lattes, the latest release of Lanson's NV Brut Extra Age is based upon the 2004, 2005 and 2006 vintages, and it's showing very well, offering up a youthfully tight-knit bouquet of warm brioche, pear, confit citrus and praline. On the palate, the wine is deep, full-bodied and incisive, with the racy spine so typical of Lanson's non-malo style, excellent concentration and a long, saline finish. Muscular and penetrating, this is an excellent wine that still flies somewhat below the radar.

Aged a minimum of five years before release, this takes a step into more refined, nougat-like lees-aged territory. There are attractive almonds and honey on the nose in addition to hints of red fruits, and the palate has a really smooth chiseled shape that drives long on a smooth acid thread to a red berry finish. Great twist on their style. Drink now and for five years and beyond. (disgorged July 2015)