Montes Obarenes

One of the finest "modern" whites from Rioja in one of its finest vintages to date is the 2018 Montes Obarenes, from the chalky soils near these mountains. I say "modern" because it matured in French barriques and concrete eggs rather than American barriques and they also use some Tempranillo Blanco (25%), but the rest is classical, Viura with some 5% each Malvasía Riojana and Calagraño. In 2018, the grapes ripened thoroughly, and the wine achieved 14% alcohol and full development of aromas and flavors, keeping a pH of 3.5. It's perhaps a little more Burgundian, with a complex nose of tangerines, flowers, pollen and faint spice and smoke. The palate is velvety and rich but with freshness. It should develop nicely in bottle. 19,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in September 2020.