Near Dolianova, in the Cagliari hinterland, there is an air of suspension, almost sacred, typical of the bleak Sardinian interior, where the confusion of the sea seems very far away. In the shadow of the Cathedral of San Pantaleo, one of the most evocative examples of Sardinian Romanesque, works the Pala family with a firm and practical outlook. A modern and dynamic winery, but without frills and well rooted in tradition, Pala is a reality centred on environmental sustainability. The range is wide and rigorous, with all the native vines at the forefront. However, the whites stand out, and among these is the Vermentino I Fiori, the most famous wine of the family: typically Sardinian, therefore minerally, marine and sapid, it is a Vermentino thatenvelops and fascinates, inviting you to discover an island wine world, but without borders.
One of the most interesting vineyards the Pala winery owns is undoubtedly this one, with bush-trained Bovale vines planted in sandy soils. Years ago the family made a determined commitment to cultivating vines in this area in the south of the Oristano province, near the neighbouring Cagliari province, at the foot of the Monte Arci volcanic massif. They cultivate three old plots here with mainly ungrafted vines growing in deep sands (sometimes with volcanic soil beneath). Vines that could almost be growing on the local beach as they are a mere 9 metres above sea level and only four kilometres from the coast.
The Bovale grape is an old Sardo variety first brought to Sardinia from Spain many centuries ago. Its structured and rustic wines offer their best qualities when the vines are planted in these splendid sandy soils. Vines which are over seventy years old produce Bovale grapes which make up 80% of Thesys, one of the Pala winery’s most interesting red wines, while the remaining 20% of fruit is Syrah planted higher up on clay and schist soils, a grape variety which adds mysterious and seductive aromas to the wine. The resulting blend is a fusion between the powerful and rustic western sensations from Bovale and the dreamlike and heady eastern feelings from Syrah, balanced together thanks to three months in new wooden barrels.
With an intense, almost impenetrable, ruby red colour, Thesys boasts strong aromas of small red fruit alongside cherry and plum jam combined with spicy notes of leather, black pepper, and roasted coffee. Elegant and measured tannins and a full body give it a firm and enveloping structure. All in all, a superb, long-lasting and elegant wine. It pairs well with grilled or barbecued red meats, rich and spicy dishes, and hard cheese.
