Veigamoura

Some Albariños are particularly floral and perfumed, and light-bodied; others are more robust, unctuous and intense, whites that are like reds in spirit, which are better at showing their potential and reveal their merits more readily after a good maturation in bottle. Veigamoura falls into the second category. A mineral Albariño, with extraordinary acidity and amazing unctuosity, a sinewy and very lively white.

It's made from Albariño grapes grown in vineyards lying at 280 metres, on a mountain slope, on soils that aren't very fertile and with granite chips covering the surface, a remarkably difficult terrain to cultivate but one where efforts are amply rewarded by the quality of the fruit. Matured in tank for a year on its fine lees, and in bottle for a further 12 months, Veigamoura shows how the Albariño, in a similar way to the Riesling — a grape to which it is often likened — is a variety whose attributes improve over the passage of time — greatly, we'd dare to say, after long periods of ageing in tanks, quite naturally, without any oak, as is the case here.

Leave it to breathe for a few minutes, in the actual glass, and you'll enjoy it to the full. It's a wine connected to the sea, smelling of white rocks and a sea-shore landscape, with aromas of fleshy but essentially citrusy fruit, such as green apple, juicy pear and under-ripe apricot, with some notes of aromatic herbs. A very refreshing and evocative nose. On the palate, there's plenty of glycerine and lots of sweet fruit that balances up its outstanding acidity; it's seductive and inviting, suggesting another glass and especially with a plate of food. Pour yourself the first glass, sit down at the table, and get ready to enjoy it.